There are wine tastings, and then there are unforgettable wine experiences. The 2023 vintage release of Château d’Yquem Sauternes at Monsieur Dior by Dominique Crenn delivered the latter, unfolding inside the Dior boutique in Beverly Hills.
Guests entered through the polished white interior of the Dior retail floor. A spiral staircase carried us upward, away from the rhythm of shopping. At the top, Monsieur Dior revealed itself to be a serene dining space, opening onto a patio overlooking Rodeo Drive. The energy of the street lingered below, but up here, we were in a focused light, air-filled space, and ready to taste the liquid gold of Yquem.
The tasting was hosted by Lorenzo Pasquini, General Manager of Yquem, who guided guests through a lineup that spanned decades while keeping the focus on the newly released 2023.
Released on March 11, the wine offers a rare opportunity to experience Yquem in its youth. While the estate is synonymous with longevity, few tasters encounter it at this stage, and even fewer do so alongside a savory menu, as most consider it a dessert wine.
The 2023 vintage, he explained, is poised to become one of the estate’s defining releases. “This one is a synthesis of the two previous vintages.” In his view, 2021, 2022, and 2023 form a trilogy marked by elegance, freshness, and precision.
In the glass, the 2023 delivered exactly that. Bright acidity carried the wine, giving shape and a lift to its sweetness.
Pasquini noted that it shows the same power as 2022, but with the elegance, freshness, and delicacy of 2021. It was paired with the Monsieur Dior signature caviar service, featuring smoked crème fraîche, egg yolk jam, pickled shallot, and served with a Madeline. “Yquem is much more than what people think,” he said. “It’s also a wine that you can pair with savory dishes such as guinea hen, roasted chicken, or caviar.”
A 2016 “Y” offered the freshness of a Bordeaux white with the complexity of Yquem, its slight residual sugar adding texture without any perceivable sweetness. The 2006 showed a deep golden hue, evolving in the glass with notes of dried orange and apricot. The 1996 leaned into spice, with saffron and ginger alongside candied orange peel, finishing with a savory edge that lingered on the back palate. The 1986, quite mature, revealed layers of caramelized citrus, toasted almond, and a gentle oxidative character, speaking to the estate’s ability to age with grace.
For Pasquini, maintaining cultural relevance for a historic estate like Yquem requires balance.
“History can be a privilege and a burden. Nobody wants to change Yquem,” he said. “We need to strike a savvy balance and, little by little, evolve.” That evolution includes broadening the contexts in which the wine is experienced. “We need to increase the possibilities of encounter with the wine. We want Yquem to be exposed to the right people, in the right way, with the right message. We let the wine do the rest.”
That message resonates at Monsieur Dior, where Beverage Director Fahara Zamorano approaches pairings with a culinary mindset. “I approach wine pairings as an extension of the dish, almost like seasoning. The goal is always to complement the cuisine first, enhancing nuances in flavor and texture that might not be immediately apparent.”
What do Yquem and Dior have in common?
“While the aesthetic of Monsieur Dior is modern, its foundation is rooted in legacy, craftsmanship, and timeless excellence, values that align seamlessly with Château d’Yquem,” Zamorano said. “Beyond dessert, our menu lends itself beautifully to Sauternes, particularly in savory applications,” exactly as Pasquini desires.
Her pairings reflect that philosophy. “One of my favorite pairings has been Guinea Hen from our Fall/Winter menu with 2006 Château d’Yquem, an unexpectedly harmonious combination.” Though their dessert pairing is equally as compelling. Currently, Zamorano pairs the Citrus Passion Panna Cotta with 2022 Château d’Yquem, for “a bright, beautifully balanced finish to the meal.”
Set against the backdrop of Dior, both the boutique and the restaurant, the Yquem tasting underscored a broader shift. Fine wine, high fashion, and fine dining are cultural elements that speak to and complement one another.
Brianne Cohen is an LA based event producer, certified sommelier, wine educator, and wine writer. During the pandemic, Brianne entertained over 7,000 people through her “Virtual Vino” online wine classes, regularly highlighting diverse (i.e. Black, BIPOC, female, and LGBT) owned wineries. She now offers both in-person (and virtual) wine tasting experiences for her corporate clients. Brianne regularly judges at international wine competitions, including the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in London and holds the WSET Diploma certificate. She writes on her own blog and for outlets such as Decanter, Vintner Project, and Kiplinger. She also holds an MBA from Loyola Marymount University. Brianne Cohen Wine & Events is a certified woman-owned business with WBENC.
