With Palermo as your western Sicily gateway, you could fill your time in Palermo alone. But the sheer number of charming beachside towns and inland wineries might have you reconsider staying in one place. If a trip to Sicily is in the cards, check out our guide on where to eat, drink, and stay on the west side of this magical island.
Stay
Palazzo Planeta
This is the perfect home away from home in Palermo, on a quiet side street in the heart of the historical center. This property boasts nine private apartments in what was once the residence of the Planeta family, one of the most important wine families on the island.
Baglio Soria Resort
A sprawling and luxurious property in Trapani, west of Palermo, with traditional Sicilian architecture and modern finishes. Request a room facing the vineyards, and be sure to enjoy the outdoor seating throughout this serene property.
Hotel Cetarium
And the award for the most charming seaside town in Sicily goes to…Castellammare del Golfo. The kind of place you want to escape to with a good book and not tell anyone where you are. Hotel Cetarium offers a waterfront, comfortable accommodations, a spectacular breakfast, and numerous outdoor patios.
Eat
La Tonnara
If you find yourself in the quaint seaside town of Castellammare del Golfo, do yourself a favor and just eat here every night. The freshest seafood and the nicest staff. Owner Gloria even brought our fish to the table before cooking and presented it on a platter after cooking.
Locanda del Gusto
You’ll find this cozy restaurant in an unassuming, dark courtyard in Palermo off of the main drag, Vittorio Emanuele. The vibe is cool and chic, and the food is delicious. Pro Tip: Ask if they have any “off the menu” Marsala wine to try.
Corona Trattoria
The restaurant has an all-white décor with a fresh vibe. The extensive wine list features both local and international wines. Pro Tip: When in Sicily, stick to the Sicilian wines. Wine geeks can’t get enough Etna Rosso and Bianco these days. Also, if you see a Perricone red wine on the list, order it.
Antica Foccaceria S Francesco
Street food in Sicily is a way of life. Open since 1834, this foccaceria is in the hands of the fifth generation of the original founder. With no menus and waiters, you belly up to the counter of goodies and point at what you’d like. The melanzana involtini (rolled eggplant) was my personal favorite. Pro Tip: If you’re ambitious, try the guastedda, sliced boiled calf’s spleen and tripe.
Ristorante Santagostino
Located at the Baglio Soria Wine Resort, this is a fine dining experience for the ages. Fresh seafood, including the famous gambero rosso (red shrimp) of Mazara, is presented like a work of art on the plate. Homemade pasta with elevated preparations really sets this experience apart.
Drink
Feudo Disisa
The family bought this estate in the Monreale DOC in 1876. The property boasts gorgeous views, a tasting room, and private event areas. With a newfound focus on indigenous varieties, those are the wines to try here. Their Perricone was spectacular.
Firriato
Firriato in Trapani is Italy’s first certified carbon-neutral winery on the same property as the Baglio Soria Resort above. This is impressive, considering they’re one of the largest wineries on the island with seven different estates. Wine highlights include the Gaudensius Blanc de Noirs Etna DOC and Harmonium (a blend of three different Nero d’ Avola vineyards).
Tenute Orestiadi
The white stone pictured above is an art memorial in Gibellina, built over the ruins of a 1968 earthquake that decimated the area. Gibellina is also the home of Tenute Orestiadi. A visit here also includes gorgeous art installations throughout the property. Their Bahar Zibibbo and Paxmentis Syrah are not to miss.
Casa Vinicola Fazio
A fourth-generation winery run by the incomparable Lilly Fazio, whose husband is the former mayor of Trapani and her brother is the current mayor of Palermo. Politics runs in the family!
Their focus is on pure wines (with minimal oak use). Highlights include their opening price point Nero d’ Avola Sicilia DOC and Torre Dei Nero d’ Avola.
Caruso e Minini
A must-visit is fourth-generation winery Caruso e Minini in Marsala, on the westernmost part of the island. Do not miss their line of wines made from native varieties Nero d’Avola, Perricone, Grillo, and Catarratto. Pro Tip: visit Sei, the local seaside salt flats.
Brianne Cohen is an LA based event producer, certified sommelier, wine educator, and wine writer. During the pandemic, Brianne entertained over 7,000 people through her “Virtual Vino” online wine classes, regularly highlighting diverse (i.e. Black, BIPOC, female, and LGBT) owned wineries. She now offers both in-person (and virtual) wine tasting experiences for her corporate clients. Brianne regularly judges at international wine competitions, including the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in London and holds the WSET Diploma certificate. She writes on her own blog and for outlets such as Decanter, Vintner Project, and Kiplinger. She also holds an MBA from Loyola Marymount University. Brianne Cohen Wine & Events is a certified woman-owned business with WBENC.
