When James Marshall discovered gold at Sutter’s Mill, California, on January 24, 1848, it was hard to imagine that this area would almost instantly transform into “gold country.” However, this discovery attracted over 300,000 prospectors, known as “49ers,” in the following seven years. Ultimately, the true value in the Sierra Foothills would be far beyond mineral wealth.
Today, the Sierra Foothills and small towns off Highway 49, leading from Sacramento and the Bay Area to Lake Tahoe, have become a destination where you will discover riches overflowing with California history, and liquid gold: Wine! This is a wine country, with quaint towns, rolling hills, historical buildings, restaurants to satisfy any palate, from simple lodging to historical, elegant bed and breakfasts, and over 70 wineries to explore, producing some of the best wines you have ever sipped, accompanied by friendliness and hospitality second to none.
El Dorado County should be on your “to-do” family destination list. Bring the kids; there is plenty to enjoy and explore, and most wineries are child-friendly. Give them a sense of California history, starting with a walking tour of Placerville, or Hangtown as it used to be called.
Placerville was originally named Dry Diggins but changed to Hangtown in 1854 due to the seven hangings that took place there before California became a state. Eventually, the name changed to Placerville to commemorate the gold town it was. Visit The Hangman’s Tree, the historic spot where the hangings occurred. Directly across the street is the famous Cary House Hotel from 1857. Restored and refurbished, this is a treasure trove of historical artifacts. You can stay in the same hotel where Ulysses S. Grant, Buffalo Bill, Mark Twain, Bette Davis, Elvis Presley, and many other famous people have laid their heads over the last 168 years. But beware, there are reports that the Cary House is haunted.
Stroll down Historic Main Street past buildings over 150 years old that have retained their charm and character. Be sure to note the Bell Tower, which has a storied history, and Placerville Hardware, the oldest hardware store west of the Mississippi. Of course, you’ll pass small galleries, clothing stores, restaurants, and business offices, all of which still have the characteristics and feel of the old days. Take it in, relax, and imagine; prepare for a unique adventure in the area’s wine and wineries.
El Dorado County: Wine Country
This area is the largest agritourism market in North America, with over 1.2 million visitors annually. Those who take the time to stop and sip the wine, talk to the winery owners, and meet the people will be rewarded in ways you cannot imagine. The phrase ‘hidden gem’ may be overused, but that is precisely what El Dorado Wine Country is, located just off the 49er route, where hundreds of thousands travelled to discover gold. Now you can pull off and discover the liquid gold of wine.
The El Dorado AVA was established in 1983 and is the largest and most all-encompassing of the three AVAs in this area (the other two are Fair Play and Sierra Foothills). With over 70 wineries in the area, there is an immense diversity of soil types, geology, micro-climates, and meso-climates, making this area so varied that over 80 grape varietals are grown here.
Geologist Ben Schupack describes this unique terroir: “From jagged metamorphic rocks to explosive volcanic mudflow deposits, transitions genesis intrusions, El Dorado geology produces highly diverse soils dominantly Igneous in origin. These residual soils, combined with the absence of a permanent water table in this “alpine” AVA, lay an incredible framework for world-class wines.”
You will discover varietals you are familiar with and new ones you are not. This is the fun of tasting and exploring the El Dorado AVA.
One thing you will find in common while visiting and tasting (often with the owner/winemaker) is that they mostly describe the ‘style’ of wine as Alpine, which means to them fresh, vibrant, clean, pure, balanced, refreshing—and that they are! All the wineries I visited had impressive wines, period. All had outstanding, friendly hospitality. And each had its special personality, which set them apart.
Let’s look at a few of these many wineries, which have fascinating stories and histories, passionate and dedicated owners and winemakers, and delicious wines.
Delfino Farms, home to Edio Vineyards, Joan’s Apple Bakery, and Henrietta Stich Cider, is a quintessential example of a true family business, with aunts, uncles, cousins, in-laws, and significant others all involved in one phase or another of the business, run by the 4th generation.
You will feel inspired when you hear the story from one of the owners when you visit. The current generation, Christine, Derek, Peter, and Ben, pooled their money to purchase the property from their grandfather’s trust
Opening the winery five years ago, at the outset of the COVID pandemic, was a challenging time. They lost their 2021 vintage due to fires, most of the 2022 vintage due to a once-in-a-generation frost, and then bounced back in 2023 with an unbelievable vintage.
Throughout this, they prevailed and produced highly regarded wines and the famous on-site bakery.
To learn the whole story, sip and listen as you discover how the four siblings of Native American Heritage (Pechanga Tribe) are determined to “give back” for the tribe’s generosity, which helped them purchase and develop the property. Aside from producing wine and upholding a generational heritage, their goal is to establish a foundation that enables Native Americans to attend college.
There is an emotional connection to the land and its heritage; only by visiting can you understand their deep feelings. Dedication, hopes, and dreams as you sip their liquid gold, gently coaxed from the vines.
When you visit, you will have an experience like no other, as they tell you the story of their heritage that has led them to where they are today. This is more than a winery and a well-renowned bakery; it is an example of life itself.
Boeger Winery is the oldest winery in the AVA. Established in 1972, when Greg and Sue Boeger purchased it, this was the first post-prohibition winery in the El Dorado AVA.
However, the terroir and grape growing here date back to the mid-1800s, when it was also a distillery in 1860, and continued to operate in this capacity until the 1920s, when agriculture shifted its focus to pears.
Barbera is their flagship red wine, and Sauvignon Blanc is their flagship white. However, due to the microclimate and terroir, they grow over 30 different varietals. During the Reagan administration, their wines were served twice at White House dinners, and their 1982 Merlot was named the best Merlot in America—an impressive history.
Today, Greg’s son Justin is the winemaker. Having grown up on and in the vineyard, Justin says of the wines he makes, “I speak for the grapes.” During your visit, you will see the 1872 Historic Cellar Building, which is on the National Register of Historic Places.
On a pleasant afternoon, you will sip outside in a bucolic park-like setting, a Shangri-la. There is a rich history, stunning beauty, great wines, exceptional hospitality, and a relaxing vibe. Bring a picnic lunch, then, sip back and enjoy.
Lava Cap Winery, now in its third generation, was founded by Nolan Jones’ grandfather in 1981.
The first vines were planted, and the winery opened in 1986. This special place in the Sierra Foothills was chosen specifically because of the volcanic terroir. It was no accident, as he was a geology professor at UC Berkeley.
Over 25 varietals, including Bordeaux, Rhone, Burgundy, Italian, and Spanish, are grown on the property. You’re sure to find several award-winning wines to please your palate. Before this was a vineyard, it had been an active farm since the early 1830s, as was true with most of the vineyards in the area.
Walk through the vineyard with Nolan; you will learn something special: what a “lava cap” is! You would think (as I did) that this was a specific geological term. However, you will learn that it was a term coined by the gold miners. You will notice areas of “concrete” like substance, and under that is granite and gravel, which miners learned was a good place to dig for gold. Therefore, they named these spots “lava-caps.”
Today, the gold found at Lava Cap is in the form of wine, and you will enjoy sipping it on the patio, as you gaze at the scenery surrounding you. Be sure to taste the Rose of Dolcetto.
Cantiga Wineworks will leave you speechless as you arrive and see what appears to be a cathedral.
You will immediately feel like you are stepping into Medieval times, and maybe you have. Sipping the wines here, surrounded by the scenery, becomes a spiritual experience.
Rich and Christine, the owners, are more than passionate and dedicated. Cantiga was founded by Rich’s father, who passed away in 2018, but the generational heritage and love continue.
You will notice a European Tapestry in the tasting room, which adds to the winery’s medieval and Old World flavor. Small production lots are produced, and they are exquisite.
Rich’s style is strictly old-world, with minimal intervention and non-malolactic (you’ll get “the spiel” from Rich, then buy the T-shirt – I did!). Everything Rich does is done with purpose, especially the ageing. Wines are generally in barrel for at least three years, then another year or two before release. These wines are ready to drink or ageable as you prefer.
The labels follow a medieval style and are designed to resemble works of art.
As Rich will tell you, they don’t make wine decisions based on economics; they make wine as it should be made, so when you sip it, you will experience an epiphany of the mouth.
Be sure to try the “Full Monty” pairing flight. It will take you to a new level of food and wine pairing!
Visit Cantiga, discover the story, experience the spirituality, and savor the wines and surroundings. This is another winery where you will “feel” El Dorado County AVA.
Element 79 Vineyards and Winery is the symbol for gold on the periodic table, so the winery name is apropos.
It is both an homage to California’s Gold Country history, and the year (1979) marks when Les and Sharon Heinsen, the owners, were married. Additionally, when you visit Element 79, you will discover a truly exceptional experience that combines wine, food, surroundings, and exceptional hospitality.
New on the gold country wine scene (tasting room opened in 2018), Element 79 has made an immediate impact not only with their award-winning wines, but with the paired wine and food experiences, created by estate chef Brian Overhauser, whose goal “is to share a snapshot of the Fairplay AVA’s wine growing diversity on each plate, connecting the dish to the land whenever possible.”
Additionally, Element 79 offers three monthly food events: Dine in the Vines, Sunday Funday wine brunch with an activity, and “Divining,” an immersive, intimate food and wine experience. These are in addition to their everyday wine and food offerings.
Come prepared to relish a culinary experience of how wine and food’s flavors, aromas, and nuances complement each other, and come hungry! Described by Chef as “wine country tapas,” the selections will blow your salivary mind! And it’s not just the flavors, but the blend of aromas, flavor, explanation as you indulge, and the artful presentation. On the day I visited, Chef prepared a special tapa for each glass of wine: Vietnamese Banh Mi Tacos (fried shrimp + flavoring herbs, veggies in lotus bun), NY-style pastrami sliders, BBQ chicken Flatbread, and an impressive charcuterie platter.
Element 79 offers more than a wine country experience; they are part of the gold standard throughout this inviting American Viticultural Area (AVA). I am salivating again just thinking about this 24-karat gold visit.
Toogood Estate Winery is just too good to imagine!
The winery was founded in 2001 by Paul Toogood, who purchased 40 acres (12 currently planted to vine). There was a vision to create something extra special and unique. In 2019, the Mittelstaedt family purchased the estate with a vision of creating a business that would include the entire family while upholding the wine and wine presentation traditions established by Paul Toogood.
The wines are nothing short of spectacular, award-winning wines representative of the terroir of the El Dorado AVA. Since 2005, Marco Cappelli has been the winemaker, crafting wines as only Marco can. A visit here is, again, a special experience.
Your adventure at Toogood will lead you to the dug-in mountain caves, where all the tastings take place. Paul intended to offer something unique and built what still stands today as the first and only dug-in hillside wine cave. This is where production, ageing, and tastings take place.
Tasting in a cave is unique, but that’s not all. There are always various special events at Toogood (please check the website), and each one is special. However, one of the most distinctive offerings is their PORT CLUB. If you love Port Style wine…This is the place that produces one of the country’s largest selections (25-30 annually) of Port-style wines.
To top this off, there is the special DOUBLE D Port of Pinot Noir, which is dedicated to helping fund various charities focusing on Parkinson’s disease. This is a “Port with a Purpose,” where a portion of the annual proceeds will be donated to Parkinson’s Research in honor of Darin Mittelstaedt (Ron’s wife).
Toogood Estate Winery embodies a family’s dedication to upholding a quality and unique tradition while supporting others in improving their lives through its Parkinson’s Awareness charity pledge. Visit, enjoy, and purchase a bottle of Double D on your visit.
Starfield Vineyard and Winery. Tom Sinton has history, vines, and wine in his blood.
In 1924, his grandfather began a partnership with Louis M. Martini, making sacramental wine during the prohibition years. The partnership continued until 1936, when the winery was sold.
Tom’s business career and wine education are quite varied. However, it culminated in Tom’s purchase of land in the Sierra Foothills in 2012, which is now Starfield, with the initial vintage being 2016.
Today, Tom, his son, and his family are all involved in this unique piece of property named Starfield because, in Tom’s words, “We believe that great wine comes from ‘Star Fields’—unique sites where fruit develops the optimal balance of aroma, flavor, and texture.”
Due to the unique terroir and microclimates, you can sample a variety of wines, including French, Italian, and Spanish varietals. Highly rated, award-winning, and affordable, these wines express the area. As is typical of this region, they are crisp, fresh, aromatic, clean, and unique, as is this magical property.
Allow ample time for your tasting and an extra hour or three to wander the trails, vineyards, and gardens that can only be described as enticing as Starfield’s sparkling Brut Rosé. This is a property where you can let the stress of the outside world fade away and take in the glory and beauty of nature, with its lush trees, vibrant flowers, well-maintained gardens, serene lake, and tranquil ponds. This is a special oasis.
Vibrant and alive during spring, in the fall, the colors turn to vibrant gold, yellow, and red. Let yourself become enveloped in the beauty of the land and vineyards as you wander around and through the almost 4 miles of marked trails. You may even want to take a picnic lunch, a bottle of wine, and meander down to the amphitheater, sit on the lawn, and become enchanted by the exquisite setting.
Visit Starfield and enjoy exceptional wines in a setting of unparalleled beauty. Let yourself be immersed in this special El Dorado property and feel the magic.
Skinner Vineyards is a wine and historical WOW!
Its history goes back to 1861, when Mike Skinner’s great-great-great-grandfather started one of the first wineries in the country. The journey of discovering Mike’s heritage is a story unto itself, because he was unaware of it until 20 years ago. WHAT a story of discovery that is.
You can visit the original wine cellar, located at 3151 Starbuck Road, Rescue, from the outside. Once you have seen this historical wine cellar, take the short drive to Skinner Vineyards’ Green Valley Ranch to taste his wines, be mesmerized by the lazy, pastoral setting, horses, and hear the family story.
Specializing in elegant Rhone varietals, Skinner is another “must” visit in the El Dorado AVA. However, what makes enjoying the wines (whether in your family or dining room) so special is the history and the story behind Skinner, a history that dates back to the mid-1800s.
Add to that your tasting at ‘the ranch’ is a setting that is simply serene and relaxing, with the horses (you may be able to feed them some carrots), and you now have another Gold Country Wine Memory. And years later, as you pop open a bottle of Skinner (maybe the 1861 blend, an homage to James Skinner and the beginning of this story), you will sit back, and for a moment visualize life back then, and the heritage you are sipping and enjoying.
Cappelli Wine Tasting Room, on Main Street in Placerville, is one of the most impressive wine-tasting and educational experiences I have ever had.
Marco Cappelli has a distinguished and remarkable history as a winemaker, winegrower, and consultant in the wine industry. His fingerprint and name in the wine industry, especially in the Sierra Foothills, are well known. Marco has taken his experience, knowledge, expertise, reputation, commitment, and philosophy to his tasting room, where he pours his own handcrafted wines.
Marco is committed to sustainability, recycling, and, above all, producing high-end, handcrafted, affordable, and quality wines. He is a person who walks the walk and talks the talk, and you would do yourself a disservice if you didn’t visit his tasting room when in the area.
You will enjoy small-production, hand-crafted wines, including Syrah, Sangiovese, Alicante Bouschet, and an outstanding Chardonnay (among other selections).
You won’t find these wines outside the tasting room unless you are a wine club member. Even then, Marco, to cut down on environmental waste, doesn’t ship! He also gives a discount when you return your empty bottle with its glass closure, as 80% of Cappelli wine bottles are sanitized and reused.
This is where the locals gather over a flight, glass, or bottle to enjoy elegant, affordable, vineyard-expressive wines. His red wines are $20/bottle, and whites are $16/bottle.
When in the area, drop by, sip, and take home a bottle of Cappelli Wine. Enjoy a genuinely singular experience from a man with a vision who lives and promotes his vision daily.
The wines of this vital area are elegant, the people are genuine and friendly, and the history is amazing. Combine that with passion, commitment, family, and friends, and you have a truly one-of-a-kind wine exploration adventure that will be remembered for years to come.
Don’t Forget Food and Lodging in Them Thar Hills
Food and Lodging are plentiful, including landmark hotels such as the Cary House (mentioned above) and The Extraordinary Camino Hotel (an eclectic 1888 historical boutique hotel recently redone with personality). The new owner, Raven Starr, has created an enticing hotel with every room reflecting a different theme. Other small inns, bed and breakfasts, hotels, motels, and RV parks will also be found. There is lodging to fit all visitors.
As to food, you won’t go hungry. A few I can personally recommend (and every place is different) include, in Placerville:
Buttercup Pantry: Enjoy breakfast and take a trip back to the 1950s and 1960s with all the nostalgic paraphernalia. SO COOL! (And good).
Franny’s Farm Table serves down-home ‘comfort food’ with a gourmet flair in a historic building from the 1880s that was once a brothel! And, please request that Adrian confirm if she is available that evening. She rocks!
Smith’s Flat House, established in 1861, is built on top of a gold mine! Enjoy delicate dining and creative flavors in a comfortable, casual setting. Check the website for events and entertainment!
The Independent Restaurant & Bar may not be in a historic setting, but it serves tasty, creative, and elegant dishes. After a day of wine tasting, try one of their craft cocktails; I highly recommend the French Pearl. Cheers!
The Forrester Pub & Grill in the small town of Camino is THE place to go for truly home-made German fare! Dumplings, potato pancakes with applesauce, schnitzel, sauerkraut, and spaetzle. It’s all good!
Get away from the bustling crowd. Explore this area. Relax, exhale, and meet some of the most genuine people, where hospitality, food, and wine will provide a truly golden experience.
William Shakespeare may have best described the overall ambience and character of this area with the following quote:
“Good company, good wine, good welcome can make good people.”
In El Dorado County, California’s Gold Country, it’s all good!
Don Sonderling is a freelance writer covering California’s Wine Country lifestyle, and culture. He and his wife are constantly sipping their way from Santa Barbara to Napa, focusing on Paso Robles and the Central Coast, where they have explored for about 25 years. Don has earned his WSET2 (Wine and Spirits Education Trust) certification, has completed the Bourgogne Masterclass through the Napa Valley Wine Academy, and is a member of the LA. Wine Writers.
Focusing on the people and unique experiences to be had, Don’s goal is to have people read about California’s amazing wine country adventures, seeing it through his eyes, and say: “I want to go there, try that, meet them,” and enrich the lives of others as his has been, by exploring California’s wine roads.
