My first trip to Paso Robles was in the late 1960s, assigned to Camp Roberts for my first (of many) US Army Reserve two-week “summer camp” training sessions. The days were hot and exhausting. Given the evenings off, we were told if we wanted to go into town for a few hours, just “don’t get into trouble.”
One evening a few of us ventured into Paso. We found a beer bar (opposite the park), sat at a corner table, enjoying a beer, and some cowboys came in. As the bar filled up, voices rose, and a fistfight broke out. We left fast. I vowed never to come back to Paso Robles again: Don’t ever say never. There may have been a tasting room or two back then, but this certainly wasn’t a wine town, it was a place to pass through.
Today, Paso Robles, with over 200 wine-tasting rooms, is a major wine and food destination, boasting world-class wines, elegant lodging, and restaurants serving up fare from burgers to gourmet cuisine in Michelin-rated establishments. Paso Robles retains the charm of a small town, and if you haven’t visited Paso lately, you must. Here are some thoughts on planning a special getaway to experience the best of Paso Robles wine, food, and lodging.
The Allegretto Experience
Pamper yourself in wine country elegance. The Allegretto Vineyard and Resort is designed as a Tuscan Villa, offering much more than a place to rest your head. Take time to relax and avail yourself of some of the many features of this tasteful, elegant property.
The attentive staff will warmly greet you, then the pampering and amazement begin. Rooms are spacious and comfortable, with amenities that say “special.” However, to get the full charm, you must take time to wander and explore the property grounds.
In addition to the resort’s amenities, (including the pool, cabanas, spa, outdoor games, and complimentary bicycles), discover what sets Allegretto apart from other luxury lodgings.
Allegretto Art Tour
Thursday through Sunday. Led by an amazing docent (Karyl) you will start at the “heart and soul” of the Allegretto: The 2000-year-old Sequoia tree cross-cut section. From here Karyl tours you through the art collection, The Abbey, and the Sonic Garden, ending at Romeo & Juliette’s tunnel and balcony, while explaining the vision of Doug Ayres (3rd generation Ayres family hotelier).
The Star Garden Tour
“A journey through the heavens.” Representing the 12 signs of the Zodiac, created by Doug Ayers. Take time to relax, meditate, and reflect on this one-of-a-kind in-the-world creation.
Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting
Learn the story behind Allegretto’s seven acres of vineyards that utilize organic, sustainable, and biodynamic farming principles. The front two acres are Malbec, and the back five grow six other varietals. You’ll also meet the alpacas and sheep on your tour.
Then, taste Allegretto’s wines in their wine-tasting room. Elegant wines, some aged up to 54 months before release. No shortcut is taken in producing fine wine.
Cello Ristorante & Bar
Cello Ristorante & Bar is a chic yet relaxing place for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Chef Jeremy Fike blends fresh, locally available ingredients to create Central Coast cuisine with an Italian flair. Each month the chef focuses dishes on a separate region of Italy-appropriately so.
Allegretto was recently designated Best Hotel in the “Best of North SLO County” awards from the Paso Press Magazine, (March 2024). And in 2023 received their 7th consecutive Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Award,
Stay, explore, pamper yourself, and find inner peace at the Allegretto, a unique wine-country experience.
Where to Dine
Les Petites Canailles
Les Petites Canailles, (referred to as LPC) is a Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence recipient for its outstanding wine list, also being a Michelin Guide-recommended restaurant, one of five in Paso Robles. LPC continuously garners rave reviews. For Chef Julien Asseo, this award is extra special as food and wine are the heart and soul of this French “wine” family!
Included among the highly regarded wines on LPC’s wine list are the following family labels:
- L’Aventure, the dream of esteemed French winemaker Stephan Asseo (father of chef Julien), who moved from France to begin this highly honored winery in 1998.
- Clos Solene the vision of Guillaume Fabre, another French winemaker, who moved from France, married his French sweetheart Solene, became Stephan’s assistant winemaker, and started Clos Solene in 2007.
- Benom Wines is a special project between Guillaume Fabre and his younger brother Arnaud, who is married to Stephan’s daughter, Chloe.
This is about as French and family-focused as you can get while savoring food, wine, and special French hospitality.
On my recent visit to LPC, we were spoiled with several delicacies (in addition to the wines). Here is a sample of some of Chef Julien’s creative dishes:
- Whole Grilled Sea bass with Herb Vinaigrette and Edible Flowers
- Burgundy Escargot Risotto, Parsley Garlic Butter, and Roasted Jus
- Crème Brulee, Valrhona Chocolate Mousse, Pistachio Financier, Pistachio cream and Raberry Variations
The LPC experience is influenced by generations of French winemaking and food. As Julien commented, “Les Petites Canailles is the result of my vision and dream that started 20 years ago in my head. We created a high-end place with amazing food, wine, and service in a relaxing, and approachable environment!” Bon Appetite!
Where to Wine
Whatever type of wine experience you are looking for, you’ll find it in Paso Robles. Here are three, all different, each presenting a sense of “place,” both in terms of the wine and their “place” in Paso Robles.
DAOU Vineyards
DAOU Vineyards is one of those destinations where you could sit all day simply staring out at a hypnotic vista. Watching birds soaring and the amazing view is magical, bringing one a sense of peace and relaxation. Combined with the wine and food this is a gastronomic Shangri-la.
First off, it’s important to know that Daniel Daou had a vision and passion for Bordeaux varietals, being a driving force in forming The Paso Robles Cab Collective (Cabernet And Bordeaux):
“The grass-roots nonprofit organization was formed with the belief that the best red Bordeaux varieties in the world are produced in Paso Robles.”
When my wife and I first met Daniel (around 2009), he shared his vision. His passion for Cabernet & Bordeaux was infectious, and he said that one day Paso Robles would be recognized as a world-class Cabernet producer that would stand shoulder to shoulder with any other California wine-producing area.
In 2011 brothers Daniel and Georges Daou opened their Italian-styled tasting room and have welcomed wine and Bordeaux lovers ever since. Producing several different blends and varietals, the focus was always to create highly sought-after, superior Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux Blends.
Early in Daou’s journey, The Connoisseur Guide to Wine (April 2015) wrote: “A growing number of Paso Robles vintners are proving that world-class Cabernet is not exclusive to Napa Valley, and this bottling from DAOU emphatically makes the point.”
Less than a decade after opening their tasting room, the Bordeaux recognition Daniel envisioned happened: Daou’s Soul of a Lion achieved a position as the #2 luxury-selling brand Cabernet Sauvignon behind Opus 1. Additionally, several of Daou’s luxury wines have received coveted 100-point ratings: (2017 & 2018 Patrimony Cabernet Franc, 2018 & 2021 Caves des Lions), plus several 98+ ratings that may well end up as 100-point scores.
Daou also has a first-class kitchen. Chef Spencer Johnson turns out deliciously flavored, elegantly presented dishes to accompany your tasting. Whether it’s duck confit, scallops, salads, or charcuterie board, they combine with vista and the wines. The menu changes seasonally, so there will always be new, exciting surprises to look forward to.
Daou Vineyards is one of many Paso Robles Bordeaux producers reshaping California’s wine country. (Note: By reservation only).
Glunz Family Winery
Glunz Family Winery is one of those extraordinary places you walk into and immediately feel welcomed and treated like one of the family. If you are fortunate to sit down with Matt or Steven Glunz, you will be taken on one family’s historical journey spanning over 150 years, from Germany to Paso Robles. This is a 5th generation family continuing to personify The American Dream. (The patriarch, Louis Glunz, was on the same ship to the United States as famous immigrants Dr. Schools* and Oscar Meyer).
The welcoming tasting room has photos on the wall detailing the Glunz family journey. The glass-topped tasting bar is filled with corks, corkscrews, and tastevins (small silver-tasting cups). And yes, there is a wonderful story relating to the corks on display.
Then, of course, there are the wines. As Steve will tell you, “We make what we like to drink.” And what they like (LOVE) to drink is their Cabernet Sauvignon, their Zinfandel, their Cab Franc (you get the picture) and let’s NOT forget the most unique, small production, solera style Mission Angelica! Made from Mission grapes, the first varietal planted in California, this is truly the nectar of the gods. Sip on its own or as a dessert wine, this elegant wine has an average of 25 years aged in oak, it is magnificent.
Vineyards are managed using sustainable and organic practices and handpicking the grapes. No detail is left wanting, and reds, on average age for at least 24 months. This is a true family operation, producing high-quality, award-honored wines that over-deliver, with estate grapes and grapes sourced from select vineyards.
This is the wine you want to drink. It’s the story you want to hear. It’s the history you want to know about. This is America.
* Dr. Schools, who immigrated with Louis Glunz in 1872. His great-granddaughter is a member of the Glunz wine club.
Eberle Winery
Eberle Winery is a Paso Robles groundbreaking, trendsetting, iconic winery that epitomizes the pioneering spirit of the country, the West, and Paso Robles.
Sipping wine with Gary Eberle is a singular experience, as he is known as “The Godfather of Paso Robles,” but he is much more than that.
Gary is a man who loves dogs, known for his standard poodles (Sangiovese and Barbera), who regularly welcome people to the winery. They are part of the family and, if you are fortunate, they may sing to you.
Throughout the years, volumes have been written about Gary Eberle, who has been described as “An American Wine Legend.”
After playing football in the ’60s for Penn State University, Gary went on to earn several degrees, and it was the degree in cellular genetics, where one of his professors introduced him to wine! (AHA moment)! Then, being awarded a Ph.D. from UC Davis in enology and viticulture, Gary found himself in Paso Robles, and that’s where his wine journey began. As Gary relates: “I came to California to make Cabernet.” And, for over 50 years, Gary Eberle has made wine (with a focus on Bordeaux, especially Cabernet Sauvignon), and has set the bar high for quality, hospitality, and friendliness. (I was fortunate to try a 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon-and it sang).
Through the decades, Gary has been on the leading edge of winemaking in California. A few notable achievements have been:
- Planting the first 100% Syrah in the country (1975)
- Creating the boundaries forming the Paso Robles AVA-the 6th AVA in the country (1983)
- Being the sixth winery in California to make Viognier (1992)
- Building the first wine cave in Paso Robles (1994-1999)
- Consistently receiving awards and recognition; the winery regularly appears on “must-visit” lists.
And, in 2020 Gary Eberle was honored by Wine Enthusiast Magazine as the year’s designated “American Wine Legend.”
Despite my decades of visiting Paso (and Eberle Winery), I had never met Gary. When you do, there is a natural sense of ease and friendship. Throughout the afternoon sipping and talking about his journey, wine, and the industry, Gary related his story. Numerous times Gary referred to Mr. Mondavi (Robert Mondavi), and his influence on Gary’s life as a winemaker and winery owner. At one point Gary remarked, “I don’t know why Mr. Mondavi made me a mentoree-I was in my early 20’s, he was already past 60.”
There are many examples of how Mr. Mondavi influenced Gary’s wine-making path and philosophy. And, about 40 years following his first meeting with Mr. Mondavi, having achieved a pinnacle of business, wine success, and recognition that very few people (in any walk of life do), Gary Eberle still refers to Robert Mondavi as “Mr.” This reflects the person that Gary Eberle is: respectful, kind, generous, appreciative, humble and a damn fine winemaker.
On your visit to Eberle Winery, you may see him sitting in front, or at the tasting bar, and he may beckon you to sit down and chat. At 80 years of age, Gary, with a twinkle in his eye, and a glass in his hand Gary told me: “I’m having the best time of my life.”
To sit and sip with Gary Eberle is a highlight you will smile and look back on years from now. He is an icon, a role model, a genuine human being.
The world needs more people like Mr. Eberle.
Don Sonderling is a freelance writer covering California’s Wine Country lifestyle, and culture. He and his wife are constantly sipping their way from Santa Barbara to Napa, focusing on Paso Robles and the Central Coast, where they have explored for about 25 years. Don has earned his WSET2 (Wine and Spirits Education Trust) certification, has completed the Bourgogne Masterclass through the Napa Valley Wine Academy, and is a member of the LA. Wine Writers.
Focusing on the people and unique experiences to be had, Don’s goal is to have people read about California’s amazing wine country adventures, seeing it through his eyes, and say: “I want to go there, try that, meet them,” and enrich the lives of others as his has been, by exploring California’s wine roads.
