I am not often asked to meet with and interview the heads of some of the most recognizable European wine brands and families. Recently, I received an invitation to Napa for a gathering of the Primum Familiae Vini (PFV) families. The venue was the stunning Antinori Estate in Atlas Peak. Founded in 1992, PFV includes 12 of the most esteemed multi-generational European family wine producers. Together, they have 2,600 years of experience across 85 generations.
PFV was founded to ensure the continuity and sustainability of traditional family-owned wine businesses in an increasingly competitive, corporate-dominated world. It aims to encourage other family companies to preserve their independence and demonstrate that a family business can be a strong asset. The group meets at one of the members’ vineyards and wineries once a year. This meeting in 2024 was spectacular and unique, as the group hadn’t been together in the US in over a decade.
With all this talk of legacy, history, and tradition, one thing was on my mind: the wine industry’s problem connecting with the next generation of wine drinkers. How do these “old” brands stay relevant to this conversation when wine consumption is down across all generations, EXCEPT for the baby boomers? I asked a few of the PFV members this question. Their replies are below.
Familia Torres (Catalonia, Spain) Founded 1870
Cristina Torres is a shareholder, board member, and the General Manager of Marimar Estate.
“Authenticity resonates with consumers, so telling our stories and the people behind those stories is a key piece.”
“As multi-generational businesses, by definition, we have to think long-term, and the onus is on us to stay relevant.”
Famille Hugel (Alsace, France) Founded 1639
Jean-Frédéric Hugel is the 13th generation of the Hugel family.
You can chase your consumers and try to tell them something new every time, or you say, ‘This is who we are.’”
“Classic is classic for a reason, but you must adapt to what nature and the market throws at you.”
Symington Family Estates (Portugal) Founded 1882
Dominic Symington is retired from the family business where he worked on the sales and commercial side of things.
“We must have pride, but not arrogance.”
“Do we have to change? Yes, we do. But we have to respect tradition.”
“My obligation was to hand the brand over to the next generation, at the very least, in the same condition I received it. Hopefully, stronger.”
Champagne Pol Roger (Champagne, France) Founded 1849
Bastien Collard is the 6th generation of the family. His role is secretary general and export manager.
“We’re committed to the education of the new generation. We do this by hosting blind wine tastings at university wine clubs.”
“It’s not a matter of generation and age. It’s a matter of mindset. Beyond the generation gaps, we share the same values.”
Marchesi Antinori (Tuscany, Italy) Founded 1385
Alessia Antinori is the vice president of Marchesi Antinori.
“We focus more and more on different expressions of Sangiovese within Chianti Classico. This is very interesting for the younger generation, as they’re interested in different varieties, not just international ones.”
“A focus on rosés that are fresh and easy but with character, such as our Calafuria from Puglia, with packaging and a label that appeals to the younger generation.”
Brianne Cohen is an LA based event producer, certified sommelier, wine educator, and wine writer. During the pandemic, Brianne entertained over 7,000 people through her “Virtual Vino” online wine classes, regularly highlighting diverse (i.e. Black, BIPOC, female, and LGBT) owned wineries. She now offers both in-person (and virtual) wine tasting experiences for her corporate clients. Brianne regularly judges at international wine competitions, including the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in London and holds the WSET Diploma certificate. She writes on her own blog and for outlets such as Decanter, Vintner Project, and Kiplinger. She also holds an MBA from Loyola Marymount University. Brianne Cohen Wine & Events is a certified woman-owned business with WBENC.
